Fitness at 40+
Beauty & Fashion
5 Anti-Aging Beauty Tricks
TV's "What Not To Wear" Star Reveals What Works/What Doesn't
Problem #1: Eye Makeup that Slips
Women tell me that as they age, eyeliner and eyeshadow winds up “traveling” down their eyelids, smearing and creating big black eyes. This happens because their eye makeup mixes with the natural oils in their skin and begins to slip out of place. If they have crepe-y texture or hooded lids, the makeup transfers upward.
Solution: You can fix this problem by using an eyeshadow primer such as Smashbox Photo Finish Lid Primer or Lorac Behind The Scenes Lid Primer to create a nice, dry surface to which the shadow can adhere. You can also create your own “primer” by applying a light layer of foundation over your entire upper lid from lashline to brow and beneath your lower lids–up to the lashline. Top with a very light dusting of translucent non-pigmented blotting powder. Now your eyelids are ready to accept makeup.
Avoid cream or stick eyeshadow formulas which tend to move around on older skin. Instead, choose a sheer neutral colored eyeshadow powder and dust it lightly across your lids. If your eyes are hooded, sweep powder across the lids and up over the creases or folds. If your crease has been lost over time, tap the shadow brush across the top arc of your eyeball to sense where the natural crease should be. Blend.
To create a nice smooth eyeliner that will stay in place all day, begin with a fine-tipped waterproof pencil; apply it as close to the roots of your lashes as you can. Look down afterward so that the liner, which might be a bit damp, has a chance to dry and “set.” Using a small angled liner brush, layer a small coat of eyeshadow powder in the exact same color as your liner over the top of the pencil to hold it in place and double it’s staying power.
Problem #2: Mascara That Smudges
Solution: If you have given up using mascara because of the dreaded raccoon eyes created by the big, bulky wands that smudge or leave specks on your lids during application, I have a solution. Switch to a mascara that employs what’s called “tube technology” formula: Instead of just painting each lash with color, these mascaras use a polymer to create a tiny sealed tube around each eyelash. I like Blinc Mascara. You should also choose a brand with a thin wand that allows you to coat your lashes without creating smudges. The best formula with a narrow wand is DHC Double Protection Mascara.
Now your mascara will last all day. But the best part is, that unlike waterproof mascara which can be difficult to remove (and can harm lashes during the required rubbing), you simply wash off tube-technology mascara with warm water and cleanser. The warm water releases the tubes and they just slide right off.
Problem #3. Bleeding Lipstick
If you have fine vertical lines surrounding your lips, you may think that choosing a long-wearing lip formula is the way to go. But stop right there! Long-wearing formulas can be extremely drying and the older we get the more moisture our lips actually need. Choose moist lip products that hydrate lips and keep them supple.
Another passe concept is using lip liner to seal in your lipstick. Because here’s the truth: as the lipstick wears off, the liner will leave you with an ugly ring-around-the-mouth.
Solution: Apply a light layer of foundation around the edges of your lips and onto the surrounding skin. Sweep a clear powder over to seal. Use a clear, colorless lip liner like my favorite Bite Beauty Line And Define Lip Primer to create a lip border. Remember that as we age, the edges of our lips become less defined so you may have to apply your border slightly over the normal edges of your lips. Place your lipstick within this perimeter and it will not bleed.
Problem #4. Thick Foundation That Doesn’t Really Cover
As we age, our skin begins to reveal discolorations–sun or age spots, rosacea; veins may also become more visible. This is when we really need to find the perfect foundation to smooth skin and give it a healthy polish. Unfortunately, this is just the moment that many women decide to start camouflaging these flaws by using a heavily pigmented or powder foundation. Not only do these “camouflage” foundations look dated but they actually make your skin appear dry and chalky; they can even enhance the look of wrinkles.
Solution: Choose a liquid foundation that goes on smooth and allows for a moist natural finish; I gravitate to Sonia Kashuk Perfecting Luminous Foundation. Use a non-latex sponge such as Studio 35 Ultra Wedges With Vitamin E to apply the foundation. Then dust on a translucent non-pigmented powder all across your face which will set the makeup and erase excess shine; buff the powder across your lids and under your eyes, into your hairline and down your neck. My favorite is Mac Blot Powder.
Note: when choosing a foundation, apply the color along your jawline. Be sure to view it in a mirror in the sunlight to find the one that matches your natural skin color perfectly. Fluorescent or indoor lights will not give you the right match.
Note 2: even if you use the right foundation, sunspots may still show through. Skip all of those new yellow, lavender, and green correctors on the market: they will just add extra layers of product to your skin and won’t really get the job done. Instead, dab a tiny bit of stick concealer–in a shade that matches your foundation–on top of each spot and blend.
Problem #5: Puffy Eyes
Solution: If puffiness around your eyes is your enemy and all the creams you have tried are not working then this trick can help.
Keep your eye creams and serums in the refrigerator. The cool temperature will help de-puff your bags and allow the creams to do their job. (My grandmother used to keep metal spoons in the freezer for this reason; she would just hold them under her eyes each morning to help reduce the swelling).
After a big salty dinner (or too much red wine), I also take vitamins which contain dandelion root before hitting the sheets. According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, dandelion has been used as a natural and safe diuretic for years that helps reduce all manner of puffs.
Note: applying the new-fangled “eye brightening” concealers under your eyes will just enhance the puffiness. Instead, take a little bit of foundation or concealer in a slightly darker shade and dab it on the most prominent part of the puff; blend carefully to help make the bulge recede.